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Found 54 results

  1. TheZatikand

    Remove Wall Attack from the game

    Hello, First, for those who don't know what i mean by "wall attack", i'll introduce it to you very quickly. You're in a PVP map, and there is a wall very closed to your opponent's monument or power wells. A common strategy here is to take the wall and put some archers on it. They will attack your opponent's monument or power well. He'll be in a hard position because it's hard to kill units on a wall. I admit i use it when i can because it's part of the game. But i think it shouldn't because it's way too much punitive in an off-guard moment. Often, it results by the victory of the wall attacker. I think the map designers didnt thought that the main PVP strategies would be: destroy wall already built because you get more energy into the void + make wall attacks. So they put walls everywhere. Including near start position thinking "it will help to defend the base, LOL". Well... its the total opposite... xD Solutions i see here: - (If its possible) If the wall is built at the beginning of the game (near base), make it free in energy, and even a definitive wall that can't be rebuilt. So players will keep it as a defensive structure and wouldn't be able to use it offensively. - Increase / decrease the wall cost depending on if it's closed to a monument/power well, - Put the wall a little bit closer so player can't take it to wall attack (red area) - Remove wall and maybe create some new walls if the map is designed to play with it. If i have the time in September, i'll be happy to edit the default maps and apply those changes, maybe publish them as "Wall attack removed" community maps and publish it to server :). And the final objective would be to submit it to devs so they can replace it by the current maps. Does someone is interested in this project? I would be happy to work with one of you people! Thank you!
  2. McLongDickson

    to fast to boring.. nerf rPVE!?

    first i love BF and sry for my bad english... but for me the biggest problem atm is you get to fast to easy all you want thats why pvp and normal pve is dead. Rly i play this game a month? and have all what i want.. stonekin pure shadow twillight etc. pvp and pve fully upgrade... okay to be fair my loot luck on booster was good. Promo Mo for example. But you must only play rPVE maps thats all. For me personally they can increase gold and lvl requirement extremly. 3 or 4 times more. Then boost the lvl exp and gold on normal pve maps. And boost it extreamly for pvp. Nerf rpve. An then maybe people play pvp and normal pve maps more. Above all pvp. It sucks you have a pvp deck but you cant rly use it because only the top 10 players are in ranked and waiting for noobs. thats why 2 of my friends stop playing this game. Fully ups their cards for pvp and then you wait 30 min in ranked to get a top player. And only playing rpve is for them to boring. especially if you dont need more gold.. I know its a beta but maybe they can take it as idea or something. I hope you guys understand what i mean...
  3. Hello, I just wanted to report this bug: Me and other players can't see my pvp rank anymore. Actually I am lvl 18 and rank 40 - but even the golden badge is away. Maybe you guys can take a look at it, ty! :-)
  4. Silverdragon

    Problem with spectator maps

    There is a huge problem with spectator maps since the auto kick was implemented that leads to the kick of player who are inactive for 3 minutes. This new change has killed the function of spectator maps because people who want to watch a match and take a place in one of the inactive positions to watch other player compete against each other are now kicked out of the match after 3 minutes and they cannot do anything against it. I understand the point to not reward people for beeing afk in pve or pvp and this change may be good for pve because this way no player can just stay inactive in a map for 30 minutes just to get a booster. But it totally kills not only regular spectating but the option for tournament leaders or commentators to stream and comment matches. Tournaments and tournament streams like the ones done by @Toggy cannot be done with this auto kick feature. Also all buildings and units are obliterated if a player leaves a match. This is a huge problem if a 2vs2 match is nearly won and one player of the winning team gets kicked. This may be game changing. It is a hard punishment if the mate in a pvp-match is afk but it is even harder to still win if also all buildings and units just disappear. I suggest that this change should be excluded from the sparring grounds or at least for the community maps. Would be nice if there is a way to just make the match and all quest progression done through a match not count if a player at one time was 3 minutes or longer afk. This would prevent the problematic of this auto kick.
  5. felkin

    Pure shadow pvp

    I was wondering if i should put a third unit in my pure shadow pvp deck (not shadow-shadow-frost) along with ashbone pyro, cultist master and was not sure what unit exactly out of these options: red carrier, brannoc and unstable demon are excluded. at the moment I have 5 cards on my tier 3 (can do with 4 too), 2 units plus evocator's woe, voidstorm and soulshatter. I can swap soulshatter anytime you can show me your deck as well, will help a lot
  6. Hello Skylords of Lyn! I dont have anywhere to go look for fun decks (except for old Youtube videos, which is in 240p), I was hoping some of you would post your decks so both I and other people could get inspiration. My deck is 100% self-made so dont look at my deck as if it is a viable one, i just play with cards i feel like are cool. Please post yours and what type of deck it is for (PvE, PvP) Current deck - PvE (With cost - as of 09th October 2018 on the Beta): Treespirit (Green): 100 Windweavers: 139 Shaman: 900 Surge of light: 100 Aggressor (Green): 75 Crystal Fiend (g): 70 Curse of Oink: 50 Coldsnap: 525 Stonehurler (Red): 40 Stone Warrior: 35 Fathom Lord: 180 Rageflame (Blue): 400 Deepcoil Worm: 650 Brannoc: 300 Hammerfall: 10 Grimvine: 350 Grinder (Red): 400 Giant Wyrm: 90 Construct: 130 Deepgorge: 11 Total cost is about 4550 BFP (Prices change a lot, some times some cards are cheap and other times they are expensive)* Also attached screenshot of the deck:
  7. I want to make a shadow frost pvp deck, I Want to use lost cards. Anyone got samples?
  8. Kunzekalauer

    Bandits were underpowered.

    Hey guys, I just rediscovered that forum. It has been years and I am still dying to play the open beta, seriously I loved that game and I love the devs for actually putting all the effort over all these years into the revival of the Skylords So I wondered if you all agree how underpowered and underused Bandits were in PVP as well as in PVE. I mean even the random PVE maps were pretty much a free win if it was just bandits, in comparison to facing lost souls in RPVE9+. That was an absolute nightmare. Can you all imagine re-balancing the game over the years once it is all stable, no more crashing servers etc. ? I personally loved the Bandits and the playstyle they represented. What are your feelings about them? Do you disagree on my observation, do you feel like they were balanced? If not, can you think of ways to make them more viable in PVP as well as in PVE? Greetz from Kunze
  9. BATTLEF0RGE

    PVP-PVE Ideas

    I just saw a battleforge PVP gamemode and made think. Maby it would be cool (in the far future because battleforge is awsome the way it is) to do be able to do ranked pvp matches with like a 2, 3 and maby even 4 orb start. In PVP you only see 1 and 2 orbs units being deployed. It would give us awsome battle to be able to change those things. The suggestion for PVE is to be able to gain quick power in trade for less battletime to compleet the PVE. I think (hope) those are little changes to make in the future. Those little changes can make big changes in al of pvp and pve.. What do you guys think? Let me know!
  10. RainZy

    Seasons/Stat Changes

    Hello Skypeoples, So I have been thinking about this idea for a while the inspiration for it came from the game Overwatch when I use to play it. After reading the forums about ranked pvp, elo and OP decks I have been thinking. ''Is it possible to make people rotate decks?'' I thought about this because people were talking about how switching decks to learn new ones will effect elo plus most people play with whatever is most op in PVP circumstances. My idea is to possibly implement seasons for ranked pvp, a ranking system similar to the game Overwatch - for those of you who are not familiar with this I shall explain: Overwatch has a ranking system based on ''SR'' which is our equivalent with elo, you gain points through winning games and you lose them through well...losing however your rank is decided by tier e.g. bronze, silver, gold, diamond etc. (This is similar to CSGO). What are the benefits of such a system? - Allows users to keep their rank without feeling too bad in dropping on a global scale (World ranking if you would call it that) - People who are good at the game will get paired with more skilled players (If this was adjusted it could also be used against dual account boosting?) - Rewards such as packs/bfp can be used as prizes (Possibly even cards). Now here is the Idea that i wanted to talk about most - Card Stat changes within seasons! Nerfing and buffing certain cards, perhaps even tweaking abilities will in my opinion keep the game more exciting for the PVP enthusiast. This will allow for players to experiment with different card builds, add more strategy into the game and a change in meta. I think that this idea would provide the player with a new challenge as they would have to switch around their decks in order for them to work and have an edge over the opponent as stat changes would be a big deal just like in any RTS game. However I do think this would have to be excluded in PVE and Campaign as stat changes would just cause a hassle in that area of the game. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wish I could put more info and detail about my idea however I am really tired, thanks for reading and I wish to hear what you guys think of the idea, do you think this would be interesting?, Do you like it?, Do you see any cons with this? The card stat changes don't even have to happen in seasons as they happen anyway due to people complaining about OP cards etc. However I think changing the stats once in a while to change the Meta would be exciting! Of course it would be annoying for some players as they would have to rebuild a deck however I personally don't think its fun to make the Ultimate Deck and not being able to go on from there.
  11. Hello fellow Skylords, this game mostly revolves around PvP matches, so it is sad that many cards with cool effects can not be used in PvP, because of their number of required orbs. It is rare that tier 3 is reached in PvP battles, not to mention tier 4. I have never seen someone having tier 4 cards in their PvP deck. So my suggestion is that many high tier cards change when they are used in PvP. By changed i mean that their effects stay the same (with nerfed values) but their tier goes down by 1 for tier 4 cards and maybe for some tier 3 cards as well (just if the the tier 3 cards would not be too OP in tier 2). Of course this comes with a nerf of the base stats and dmg of their effects. If the Devs do not want to make it too complicated i would set a percentage, which the cards lose of dmg, stats and effective time (for something like cc or buffs). I know it is much work but this would allow the players to find new cool combos and tactics. Maybe then there would be more people whom play pure element decks. Your Battleforge veteran, Yima Ymir
  12. Grandits

    3VS3,4VS4

    Hey guys what do you thing about 3vs3 or 4vs4 (would be also nice 2vs2vs2 or 1vs1vs1)? I thing the 3vs3 or 4vs4 whould bring more Stratagie feeling in this typ of playing hoping for feedback! ~ Lukas
  13. triggz

    Rate my Lost Souls PVP 1v1 deck

    Hey guys, i loved playing pvp in battleforge and looking forward to the release. What do you think about this 1v1 deck? Just put your opinions down there thanks
  14. znee

    Crogi's special deck purefire PVP

    Hello bois and girls, As we know Open Beta is coming to us. That's why i would like to show you my pure fire deck (before the close). There is a full deck. At start we summon Nomad to get asap first powerwall. We can used 3 Nomad to rush enemies (they getting dmg buff). We can use Sunderer or makeshift tower to destroy small monsters. At tier 2 we got some combos - for example firedancers, raylling banner + girl power. This way you can easly take down power wells or orbs outlocated on map. 0 Second one is Scythe Fiends/Skyfire Drake with ravage. To quick down strong opponents you can summons enforcer. Two card T3 to long games. We got here also control spells (offensiv) to doing dmg before heal up and etc. What do you think about my special deck :)? Waiting for feedback! Really sorry for my english (it's my biggest flaw)
  15. Fyrios

    Best cards in the game (?!)

    So I wanted to know what you guys think could be the best cards in the game. Since "best" is a bit of a loose term I made up 5 categories. Give me what you think is the strongest in PvP (1), strongest in PvE (2), Funniest one (3), Most versatile one (4) and just which holds a special place in your heart (5) You can mention one card in each category or do a ranking in each category if you feel like it. I mainly want to know what you guys think
  16. Elemantary PvP Knowledge This Guide is mainly for beginners and less experienced players of PvP. I want to share basic knowledge more experienced players have over starters, so that they can try to have fun playing PvP even if they get stomped. Then they can look at this, helping them to analyze their games. So obviously, this is not a guide beginners just read and suddenly be strong, it just should give them ways to think how to get better. There are a lot of guides out there already, written down or recorded as videos. This guide here will be my personal opinion on what is basic, and if one wants to improve further I recommend watching game commentaries of top players or guides like from Cicada etc. Anyone who likes to add thoughts or critics to this, I would like to encourage to do so! So what do experienced players usually know? It is knowledge about: 0) How do I get started and better? 1) Energy 2) Summoned cards do different special damage. 3) Do I summon units dazed or better not? 4) Moving and placing units more efficiently 5) Focus Fire 6) When do I focus my damage on a well, when on an orb and when on a unit? 7) Split attacks 8) Don’t forget about your units 9) Watching the animations caused by the opponent player 10) Keep an eye on the mini map. 11) Estimation of a fights outcome 12) How powerful are additional orbs, when should I grab one? 13) Wide knowledge of existing cards, often played in PvP 0) How do I get started and better? Honestly speaking: Put some cards into a deck and play. Be brave to lose a LOT! But you’ll definitely need: Ground units (I use the plural here and mean it. It’s possible to play with only 1 T1 unit, but you want to learn how to play right?) in T1 of ONE color (better T2, too) Everything else is optional, you will find out quickly enough what works well and what not so. Lose your first 100 games as quickly as possible and try to understand your mistakes and maybe those of your opponents. 1) Energy So, I would like to spare you from the very details. But what is important to know right away? There are generally 2 ways of energy income. a) from wells from void When you start a map you get 2 wells, and a base of 400 void energy. Beside that you get 100 energy for free at the start of a game. Every second you constantly gain about half of the amount of what the 2 arrows show you in the top right into the power you can actually use. The top arrow shows income from void, the second one the number of wells you have up. Whenever a unit dies, a spell is casted or an activated ability is used 90% of the used energy will recycle into the void power. So you only lose 10% of its energy in the long run completely (mainly over about 2:30 minutes, I know this is very gross: there are much more detailed lectures about this topic), but be careful that you have a temporary loss of power. However! If you lose a well or an orb you won’t get your energy back. So try to not lose those without getting clear compensation (getting a temporary advantage that you can use to counter attack: e.g. a larger army on the field and or more temporary energy available to use). Repairing is refunded 100%, but is temporary very costly. When to repair a well etc. or not is not an easy decision even for very good players, so I recommend to get your own experience (it’s very situational). Being able to grab wells earlier is a big deal because you will also be able to take the 2nd earlier if nothing happens. But does that mean you should take one as quickly as possible? If you think you can do so without losing it to a rush being 100 (decreasing on time) down, yes. Here also: Get experience! Usually being bold and greedy might look dumb at first, but that’s a way to learn. At last if you cannot figure out how to hold, it was probably unreasonable to be greedy. This is then valuable information you can use when your opponent goes well first in the same situation next time. Lot of times you can keep fighting, even if you lose a well before you gained its 100 power, there are a lot of things important other than just being ahead or behind in energy. Also: Be careful not to cast anything not clearly helping you to win or stall a battle, your opponent might be able to ignore or run from (e.g.: a Life Weaving-75 energy-, spells and buffs are good but you need to get its value played out) and put you into a temporary power disadvantage, so your opponent could take a well etc. for same or similar cost. And of course if you kill a unit with more costs then your own unit or spell, you get a power advantage. Whenever you end up with having less energy, that’s mainly due to decisions in game. You can always improve with any new knowledge. 2) Summoned cards do different special damage. Units casted have 4 different sizes: Small, Medium, Large and Extra large referred to as S, M, L, XL Units. If on the bottom left of a card there is a sword (melee attacker) or a bow (ranged attacker) then right of that symbol is S, M, L or XL written. That means that it does an additional 50%! damage against that size of unit. For example: We call a unit that does 50% more damage against S-Units an S-Counter (M-Counter etc. likewise). Obviously often (of course you have to find out the exceptions by experience) it is efficient to attack an S-Unit with an S-Counter etc. If the symbol is a star the text on the card will explain what special damage it does (e.g. multishot, siege damage etc.) Letting the right units fight the opponents ones is one part of what is called micromanagement (like unit movements such as spreading, kiting, body blocking or focus fire, explained later on) 3) Do I summon units dazed or better not? Dazed units do less damage and have only half health. But when you are attacking far away from a spawning point, where your units are cast undazed you don’t have much of an option. But be careful with low health units which might die before they even get out of daze (especially against fire or shadow). So if you run an offense spawn some units before you reach the opponents units. Often in higher level play you see a T1 fight with some units “pre”spawned, so that they are able to fight with full force. 4) Moving and placing units more efficiently Micromanagement is fairly important, and because movements are quite slow in this game it is in my opinion not as hard to get ok-ish at as in faster games like starcraft etc. Let me explain some techniques you should be aware of and maybe try for yourself. Spread your units! That avoids splash damage to hit all your units at once. But try to spread them only as far as needed (yes you need to gain experience here again: vs. nasty surprise, lava field etc.), so that they still fight efficiently. Often it is good to spread units in a circle or to attack from different angles. When you cast new units also try to place them so they are spread efficiently. Kite! Hit and run if you have faster against slower units. (scavenger, frost bite and so on are also very helpful) If you have a slower unit or your attack is “muted” by some special abilities. You can run with that unit and attack the attacker with another unit. Block! Many units get slowed down when enemy units are in the way. You might use that to your advantage! Stampede! Some units can trample others down and hinder their attack. 5) Focus Fire Especially with ranged units focus fire is important. Means: Attacking the same target with a bunch of your attackers or with all of your attackers. Let’s explain it with an overly simplified model(the units are not as simple, but it still applies often enough): Two armies A and B are fighting each others. All of A’s and B’s units do one damage per attack and have 4 hitpoints. Round 0: A(4) B(4) A(4) B(4) A(4) B(4) A(4) B(4) A uses focus fire and B not. Round 1: A(3) A(3) B(4) A(3) B(4) A(3) B(4) Round 2: A(3) A(2) A(2) B(4) A(2) B(4) Round 3: A(3) A(2) A(1) A(1) B(4) Round 3: A(3) A(2) A(1) Well, I hope you got the point. Similar models you can make for pincer attacks (sandwiching) etc. 6) When do I focus my damage on a well, when on an orb and when on a unit? You do want to get down something which is not getting recycled into the void (wells, orbs), but we aware! When you shoot on a building you are not doing damage to something which may attack you back. Wells and orbs can serve as static tanks. So I cannot answer this question in a simple fashion. But the higher your DPS (damage output per second) is the likelier is an lesser punished focus on a well or orb. Also with siege units you might prefer targeting structures. As for targeting wells and orbs: Wells have more function in the earlier stages of the game (in later stages why would you want to invest 100 energy when the game almost ends and the void income is huge) and lesser health than orbs. So you usually you want to target down wells over orbs early and the other way round in the late game. 7) Split attacks Often it is easier to defend one place than two. For example: Try sending 2 siege units to attack a well on one point of the map and if possible at the same time with the rest of your army somewhere else, your opponent will have a tough time trying to handle this problem. 8) Don’t forget about your units Use your units you have cast. Try not to forget about any of them. They are bound power (not even void income) if they do nothing. If they are too far away to do anything helpful, consider sacrificing them. Same goes for towers if they have lost their strategic value. 9) Watching the animations caused by the opponent player There is no fog of war. You need to collect all information you can get. So carefully observe what your opponent is casting. 10) Keep an eye on the mini map. Well same as point 9) 11) Estimation of a fights outcome That needs a lot of experience and/or good judgment, but… At least: Do not sentence your units to death walking into obviously lost battles. I have seen beginners run with one t1 unit into an army of t1/t2 units without a special idea to handle that (at least I couldn’t come up with one). You might do that if your one unit is much stronger and/or you have the energy and supporting spells prepared (e.g. nasty surprise, lava field, corpse explosion, life weaving) 12) How powerful are additional orbs, when should I grab one? I personally like to stay lower tier and grab a well or the map presence instead, if I think I can defend. But an additional orb, especially t3 is a huge power (not in the meaning of energy besides void manipulation cards) boost. Here also, I do not really have THE beginner tip. But the more defensive your deck is build the more you might want to stay lower tier and collect more energy etc. instead. 13) Wide knowledge of existing cards, often played in PvP The more cards you know in detail the better your judgment will become and the more likely you are to make the right decisions. Usually (also depending on buffs and nerfs of cards) there will be a so called meta game (cards you find in most top players decks). Work on knowing those cards and how their animations look like in the game. Ok, I hope I did tell as less nonsense as possible, and I know this is not even half of what one can learn and many of you might have diffrent opinions about what is important or basic. But I hope it will help especially those, who find themselves at a huge loss at what to do and think about in PvP, HiyaMC
  17. WindHunter

    Let's Talk Shrine of Greed

    This is a card near and dear to my heart. I used it as a crutch to get 12th on the ranked ladder at a time where everyone said it was useless. Before I go farther let's remember what it does: Shrine of Greed: Tier 2, Shadow/Shadow, 100 Power Building Transfer half of the void pool to the power pool instantly. For the next 30 seconds, no void power flows into the power pool and any power that would normally flow into the void pool is instead permanently lost. This debuff means that for 30 seconds if you use a spell, lose a building, or let a unit die you permanently lose the 90% power that would normally be refunded. The debuff is so crippling it makes the upside, gaining half of your void pool instantly, not worth it. The lose of a single nightcrawler means permanently losing 54 energy. Lose two nightcrawlers and it is worse for you than building a power well and instantly destroying it. The issue is, the debuff is so bad that you will lose far more than 100 power in the 30 seconds it is active. But, did you know Shrine of Greed's (SoG) debuff is tied to the building itself? If you destroy the building immediately after activating it, you lose the 90 power bound into the building but instead get half your void power instantly. This is clearly a bug but it makes the card incredibly interesting to play and gives Pure Shadow a way to run an incredibly long t2. Rediscovering the bug from another Pure Shadow player Eljyn(?) is what vaulted me into the top 20. It lets you turn a match you are losing into a game where you have 2 buffed harvesters on the field. If you have ever played me and wondered why my micro is below every other top player's, reading this should give you a hint. For 1v1 PvP In my opinion the card is balanced. If given the chance I'd redesign it to bring back Pure Shadow's old school t2 turtle into Harvester or 5-card T3 without requiring the player to abuse a bug every game. Once someone knows you have this in your deck(or is given the impression), they can punish you hard when you build it. I typically had to go one Power-well down when I built it and if I didn't get major value the game was essentially over. It is a true high-risk high-reward card and fits well in the Shadow faction. For 2v2 PvP This is the important part of this post. The widespread use of this bug had a detrimental effect on 2v2 in the later years of BattleForge. The issue is that both you and your ally get back half of your void power instantly and only one of you suffers a -100 power penalty. In 2v2 where there is more power already in the game, this gives a team with a Pure Shadow member an unfair advantage in the mid-to-late game. Assume all four players in a 2v2 match have 1500 power in their void pool. One team is capped at +20 void power per second with 1500 in their void pool while the team using SoG pulls out 750 power instantly and still gets 15-16 per second. This isn't healthy for the 2v2 scene and as time went on and knowledge of the bug grew, more and more teams started incorporating a Pure Shadow member. And that's why I'm making this post. I've seen talk of balancing and if we are going to be making balance changes it is very important for us to look first at cards that hurt the overall playing experience of the PvP communities and this is a card we need to focus on first. Discuss.
  18. Fauchderial

    Order Of Players To Fight

    Hello guys, Put under this topic your nickname and I'll wrote it under this text. Let the pvp list begin ! 1. Defqon
  19. RadicalX

    Battleforge PvP with RadicalX

    Hey everyone, RadicalX here! Some of you may already know, that I try to provide as much Battleforge gameplay content as possible and since I'd like to know what you'd like to see I decided to make this thread here. So this is the stuff I wanted to upload on YouTube anyways: -> Some of my best PvP matches (either the closest or clean ones, depends) -> Recent streams with actual gameplay (PvP & maybe some PvE too) -> Replay Reviews from 2013-games (Analyzing either old top level PvP matches or some crazy games in general as long as I have enough replays) -> Random videos about some stuff like specific interactions, that are useful to know to spice up your gameplay (or something like "how to oneshot powerwells with an Easter Egg" ) -> Short deck building videos with short analysis about the 10 different factions Here's the last video I've uploaded recently: Generally speaking I'll try to make a channel with entertaining content, but also educational aspects for those, who want to play the game on a high level in PvP. So let's get to the actual point. What kind of content would you like to see? A specific PvE map (solo runs)? A specific PvP matchup or a special deck in action? Or maybe something like challenges (I think @Eirias made a thread about this once)? I'd appreciate every comment & idea on this!
  20. LittleLegend

    Weekly PVP Map Discussion

    Hi ! Here I want to start a discussion about the various PVP Maps in Battleforge. I try to post a new map every week and then you can talk about your personal opinion of the map, tactical information ( like important choke points or Well/Monument positions) or just general facts. Maybe I will then gather the information and add it to the main post of the map, so we have a good summary of all the things to know about map X. Im very curious about whether the system will work or not and open for criticism from you guys. Maybe we can even talk about some PVE Maps, if it works. So here comes the first Map: HALADUR: Mode: PVP Players: 2 (1 vs 1) Wells: 14 Monuments: 6
  21. Saim25

    NEW 1on1 PVP MAP!

    Hello everyone, here you can download my new Map HIGHGROUND. Its a fast and intense 1on1 Map, inspired by one of my favourite Maps "Haladur". Orbs: 6 (Maybe Ill add one more) Wells: 16 1. DOWNLOAD : https://www.dropbox.com/s/zzlscd35ic4wler/Highground new version.pak?dl=0 2. Put the PAK file in Documents/Battleforge/"Map" (if there is no Map folder, create one)
  22. How to play Frost T1 a PvP Guide by RadicalX - General talk - Hey everyone, apparently I didn't plan on releasing this guide so early, but since I have this finished guide lying around for such a long time I'll just post it now. This time I will talk about Frost T1. I'll try to do pretty much the same I did with my shadow guide: I'll try to provide some basic informations for new players combined with some deeper analysis of matchups and tips for more experienced players too. The stuff I wrote refers only to 1v1, because 2v2 is different in many ways (I said the same stuff in the other guide). General question: Why should I play Frost T1? Let's start with an essential question here. Why would somebody consider playing Frost T1? Because Frost T1 isn't as reliable as Shadow or Fire T1, since Frost has got 2 major weaknesses: 1. no access to a T1 swift unit 2. Frost does very poorly in open fights without a near power well Those two weaknesses combined make Frost very inconsistent in a way, because the difficulty of your game depends primary on the map you are playing on and not the opponents deck-color like in other matchups. Alot of people consider Frost T1 as too risky and that is a big reason why next to no high ranked players used it (only nature T1 was actually even less common). But lets take a look at the upsides of Frost T1. First of all Frost Units are the strongest T1 units in the game in terms of combat stats. Their cost efficency is amazing and they have such an incredible amount of hp which makes aoe damage useless unless your opponent is already T2. Frost may be weak if you can't get a close well situation, but when you manage to take a favourable power well you can smash your opponent from that point on. Frost T1 is unbeatable in a close well fight as long as your opponents doesn't build turrets or is T2 and even then it's possible to win due to the incredible stat efficency of Ice Guardians next to buildings. In addition to that Frost T1 offers a very strong late T1. There is pretty much no colour that stands a chance against you at the late-T1 stage (not even nature as some people may think). Your units already have got an incredible amount of health and homesoil adds another scaling effect in terms of damage which lets you outscale your opponent easily. I guess you can describe Frost T1 like this: "High risk, high reward" - the Deck - This list is going to be short like the one for my Shadow Guide. It just gives a slight overview about the cards to show what was essential/viable/trash. Group 1 - The "must have" Units (You would suffer alot if you decide to play without them): Master Archers Frost Mage Ice Guardian Ice Barrier Home soil Glacier Shell Group 2 - Very strong additional cards, which provide safety for some matchups: Lightblade (purple) Frost Bite (purple) Ice Shield tower Glyph of Frost Group 3 - Cards that are only useful for higher Tier combinations: Frost Bite (red) Frost Sorceress Group 4 - Cards that are only useful in a single certain scenario (usually not viable): Imperials Lightblade (red) Wardens Sigil (both affinities) Northern Keep (blue) Glaciation (blue) Wintertide (both affinities) Group 5 - Trash Northern Keep (red) Northguards Glaciation (red) Construction Hut Defense Tower Some of you may noticed the surprising fact, that I included Wintertide in group 4 despite the fact that the card used to be pretty popular. I want to talk about it a little bit more in detail, because alot of players rated it pretty highly even tho it was a very unnecessary card and pretty much a wasted deckslot. And this is the reason for it: The only unit, that has any kind of synergy with Wintertide are the Master Archers. The other M Units, don't get anything from the knockback immunity and even if you can give your units insane amount of effective hp for a good amount of time, it wont make a difference due to its self-root. Wintertide + Masterarcher spam is not useful against any deck and there is always a better option for Frost T1. -> Master Archer spam + Wintertide loses against Dreadcharger spam if the shadow-player stops every movement command so he doesn't kill his own units with the reflect damage through stomp and it is not really hard to execute that. Motivate makes it even worse in this matchup. -> Master Archer spam + Wintertide is useless against nature, because you wont have enough burst to kill units effectively. Hurricane will at least do a single knockback before you can react unless you are a master at predicting the enemies actions and even tho it seems like hurricane does no damage at all it can deal up to 500 damage in total against a massive unit spam (10 damage that gets applied 5 times against up to 10 units). That is at least a respective amount for 50 power. -> If you try Master Archer spam against Frostmagespam you are going to have a bad time. A very bad time. Frostmages will just demolish you, because it's an S-counter and has a constant knockback. This means you have 0 damage without the use of wintertide and still less damage when you decide to use it and this is just bad. -> In the matchup against Fire Scavenger is just a better version of Dreadcharger, because there is no stomp-effect, which makes it even more reliable (Therefore the blue affinity of Wintertide would be actually better in this matchup). Apart from Firesworn there is no real knockback (Sunderer doesn't count) that makes Wintertide useful in any way. You may think Wintertide helps you to scale better into the late T1 stages since you get a higher efficency the more units you affect with a buff, but honestly ... you already outscale every deck in the late T1 stage due to homesoil, which is the superior buff in every perspective. Wintertide just doesn't have any kind of synergy that makes it worth a slot for a 1v1 deck. I consider Wintertide a 2v2-only card and this is why I would recommend to take this card out of your Frost deck. - The maps - I want to mention the maps right away, because they are super important as a Frost player. I want to give you a little overview about the strength of Frost T1 on each map, because in case your opponent plays shadow or fire as his T1 (which happens probably around 80% of the time) he will try to prevent you from getting map control and close wells. Against nature things are much different, but I'll talk about that a little bit later. Haladur: It alawys felt a little bit weird to play on this map. The middle of the map was pretty much perfect for you, because the power wells were pretty close to each other and it was not possible to get zoned from the first power well. Sounds great at the first look, but there was a massive downside. The main base was super far away from the middle position. This allows swift unit spam for the shadow/fire player and this is pretty nasty to deal with. Your opponent attacks your power well in the middle, but if you try to play units to defend he can just run down to your main base and leave your slow units on the other part of the map. You have to spend your power very carefully on this map, otherwise you'll end up with a massive amount of bound power, that does litereally nothing for you. Uro: This Map is your worst enemy. If your opponent starts immediatly with his swift unit he can block every spot on the map. You are pretty much forced into a dazed fight, which isn't favourable for you at all. Many Frost-players tried to start with 2 units immediatly and sent them to different positions to aquire at least some sort of mapcontrol, but that only works as long as your enemy doesn't pay attention. If you are in a tournament and your opponent picks this map you should consider playing something apart from Frost T1. Lajesh (standard version): You had a wellcluster next to your main base which is easy to defend. But on the other hand it's very hard to apply pressure due to the walls. Your T3 spot could get blocked pretty fast, but if your opponent takes the position himself it opened up opportunities for you to launch a strong attack. Lajesh (without walls): If both player agree to play without walls this map got just so much more interesting. When the power rises you can take an aggressive power well and force your opponent into a close well situation. Even though you had to spend 100 power into the power well you will come out on top. But take care of mortar & phasetower! Yrmia: I loved playing Frost T1 on Yrmia. The well distance is very short and the map in general is very small, which helps you alot to defend yourself against early aggression. If you get yourself into a safe position you will be able to launch super powerful attacks in no time. In my opinion this is the best map you can get as a Frost T1 player. Simai: A very passive map. It is very easy to defend yourself against aggression and you can take alot of power wells on your side of the map without losing to much map control. On the other hand it was very difficult to attack your enemy if he decides to stay on his side of the map. Pretty much an antifun map, but pretty favourable because it allows you to scale. Elyon: This map causes alot of problems, because it's small and mid centered. Since you wont be able to win dazed fights against fire or shadow you would lose the control about the mid position which means you would lose the entire map control. You have next to no available power wells & no T3 spot which causes serious issues. At least your T2 spot was very save, so it's not as bad as Uro. Whazai: It always felt a little bit weird to play on this map. You have no control about the middle of the map in the early stage of the game and your opponent has the pressure advantage. That said, Whazai isn't that bad for you. The map is small and that increases the power of your Ice Guardians (you can spawn dazed IG's with active shield over the cliff at your starting wells). If your opponent gets a little bit too greedy and takes a power well in the middle you can punish him for that. By way of conclusion I want to remark that Phasetower is broken on Whazai. Generated maps (small): The small maps were very threatening, because they are super mid-centered. The player who controls the mid position (usually 1 orb + 4 wells) controls the entire game, sometimes you could even deny T3 spots. In most cases you had at least a save well spot with a T2 orb, but you lost so much map control and you had to fight really well if you try to reclaim it. Generated maps (big): These maps are just bad designed. You need 2 entire minutes to walk up to the enemy. At least the maps were favourable for you, because no early aggression means you can take safe wells and scale into a T3 which should be not too bad for you since Frost T1 allows you to play a timeless one T3 regardless of your T2 colour. Still not the most enjoyable type of maps ... Frost may be very map dependend which makes the T1 a little bit unreliable for your casual ladder games, but just imagine how strong it can get in tournaments. There were a good amount of players, who used to play only pure fire. In a best of 5 you would get at least 2 free wins by picking a good map for Frost T1, because Pure Frost naturally beats Fire in T2. Mastering frost T1 can help you alot in these situations and can make yourself a way more threatening player even for opponents with superior micromanagement and decisionmaking when they aren't flexible in their deck choice. - Matchups - Frost vs Shadow Time to take a look at the specific matchups. I'll just start again with a short look at the core cards in this matchup: Frost: 1. Master Archers 2. Ice Guardian 3. Ice Barrier 4. Homesoil Shadow: 1. Dreadcharger 2. Nox Trooper 3. Motivate Core Strategy: There are 3 possible scenarios that can happen in this matchup and I'll descirbe all of them. First scenario: You don't get a powerwell If your opponent get's the opportunity to deny you a powerwell and forces you to go into a dazed fight you will just lose. Master archer spam is the best thing you can do here, but you need at least 10-11 units with homesoil to stand a chance, because the Dreadcharger just demolishes Master Archers due to its bonus damage against S units. Ice guardians on an open field won't help you, because they have no iceshield and that leaves them as super squishy units. Lighblade costs too much & even a well placed Glyph of Frost won't save you, because there is just not enough dps early into the game to make good use of it. The shadow player motivates the focussed Dreadcharger and destroys you when he gets out of the cc. This is why you want to avoid this situation at every cost! Even if you have to give up alot of mapcontrol, getting a power well is the first very important step to keep yourself in the game. Second scenario: You get a powerwell and your opponent attacks you immediatly. This is the most common situation in high ranked. The shadow player has a 100 power advantage and alot of strong players will attack immediatly at this point because this is a very micro intensive fight. The Shadow player tries to pick off your units immediatly, because your units are more cost efficient and if he waits to long or doesn't get his picks you outscale him, defend the well with glacier shell and get a massive advantage. This is why you have to micro your units as well as possible to survive up to the point where you can fight back. The units you need to play are Master Archers and Ice-Guardians. How much of each kind is decided by the units your opponent plays. If he plays many Dreadchargers, Ice Guardians are your way to go, Master Archers perform better against Nox Troopers on the other hand. Be careful with the use of spells at that point.Only use Glacier shell if your well drops really low. Otherwise your enemy can just switch his focus back onto your units immediatly and you wasted 50 power which could be invested into another unit. Only use Frost bite if you are 100% sure to finish off the unit & don't use home soil on just 2-3 units. It's better to get more units into the battle and micro them to build up a huge army. If you defend this attack successfully, the game is nearly won. Third scenario: You get a powerwell and your opponent takes one too Unless you are a really high ranked player this will be the most common scenario. And luckily this one favours you. If both players just take a well you are pretty much save due to the high cost efficiency of your units around your power wells. Just don't let your units die for free and wait a little bit up to a point where alot of power is in the game. Because at that point you can take another power well without any risk. Your opponent lost his momentum and can't attack you at a high power level even with his advantage due to the strong stats of your Frost units. This often results in a situation where your opponent decides to take a power well himself. And this is how you can take advantage of this: Try to take your wells in a way to close the gap between yourself and your opponent. If you reach a point where you just have to build 2-3 Ice barriers for your Ice Guardians so they can walk up to the enemies well without losing their shield to crush your opponent. Your unit composition should consist of 2-3 Ice Guardians + Master Archer spam. The Ice Guardians are a big threat to the Dreadcharger and Master Archers naturally outscale a nox trooper spam espcially since Nox Trooper needs so many extra hits to take down an entire Master Archer squad. The last missing piece is the homesoil that gives you the needed boost to wipe out the entire shadow army. In smaller skirmishes it's important to use Frostbite to pick off units and prevent yourself from getting outmicroed by swiftunits. Tips & cards to watch out for: Starting unit: Always start with Master Archers and don't get baited into the Lightblade start. Yes, the card allows you to skirmish well due to the taunt ability if both players take a well, but if the shadow player attacks immediatly, the card is useless, because it gets demolished by nox troopers while binding more power than other units, that would be more useful in combat. This will make a rush much easier for your opponent. Phasetower: This card can stop your aggression entirely, so try to figure out if your opponent plays it or not. Phasetower is strong enough to allow Shadow fighting in close well positions, therefore even at a mid/late T1 stage it can be risky going too aggressive against it, especially when the Shadow-player can make good use of terrain to protect the turrets from your Ice Guardians. But as long as you make sure to avoid being overaggressive there is not too much to worry about, because your units are strong enough to deal with Phastowers when the port ability gets used. Motivate: Not every Shadow player uses it, because Nature & Frost were sort of underplayed! If your opponent doesn't use it you will reach your power spike earlier to punish your opponent harder. So always be aware if your opponent uses motivate in the first skirmishes or not. Replays: - coming soon - Frost vs Nature Core cards: Frost: 1. Frostmage 2. Ice Barrier 3. Home Soil Nature: 1. Swiftclaw 2. Surge of Light 3. Dryad Core Strategy: This matchup is pretty easy to describe. Spam Frostmages ... and win. Honestly, that's pretty much everything about this matchup. Frost mages negate Windweavers & Spearmen entirely, outdamage Shamans & Dryads by a wide margin and outrange Swiftclaws, who are the only real threat to you. In the early game Swiftclaws do a massive amount of damage to M units and therefore you need to keep Distance from your opponent up to the point where you get enough Mages to oneshot the Swiftclaws in one attackrotation (you need around 8 Frostmages with homesoil support to do so -> 930 damage per rotation, which is enough to kill a swiftclaw even with the dryad damagereduction). The most dangerous thing for you is an early T2 from your opponent. Therefore you always have to be in a good position, where you can threaten a T2 rush while being in a safe distance to be not caught out by an early swiftclaw spam. The most popular decks with nature T1 were pure nature & stonekin (nobody played shadow nature or fire nature with nature T1). Executing a rush against pure Nature is pretty easy, because it lacks an M/M counter in T2 and as long as you split up your Frostmages against Curse of Oink there is nothing that can stop you (kiting Deep One with Frostbite is an easy task). Against Stonekin it gets a little bit more difficult, dependend on the cards you are playing against. Stonetempest for example can perma cc 3-4 mages, but Lightblade hard counters him, so try to play one if you see your opponent switching into T2. Razorshard got nerfed, which makes it easier to outmicro them, Stormsinger doesn't have enough dps to stop you and the other cards are also S units, so as long as your micro is on point you can rush against stonekin aswell even with alle the cc & building protects. Tips and cards to watch out for: Treespirit: The honorable nature players wont use him, but you will still encounter this card due its ridiculous strength. But the good thing for you is the fact, that your Frostmagespam can't get caught out by treespirit, because you can build up Ice Barriers pretty fast to block their entire damage. It's a little bit more difficult to build them in an offensive position, but if you manage to do so it isn't a big deal to win a fight against them. Primal Defender: Never underistimate the influence turrets can have on the game in this particular matchup. While bound power is usually a really bad thing, Primal defender can create a huge zoning are & on some maps (Haladur for an instance) your main base is super far away which allows to to stop any type of aggression. Your opponent can switch into T2 safely, which allows him to stay in the game. Primal Defender & Mark of the Keeper map have a big influence on this matchup, so keep that in mind. You probably won't play against Mark of the Keeper, because it's useless against Shadow (outranged by Phasetower), but people definitely used Primal Defender! But if your opponent doesn't use any buildings be confident try to finish your games in T1! Pure Nature does pretty well against frost splashes in T2 and you really want to avoid that unfavourable gamestage. Tip: Keep your Frostmages at one spot in T1 and don't split them up! You want all of them shooting at the same time at the same target (The damage can be bodyblocked by other units otherwise & having delays between the attacks allows your opponent to time more efficient heals betweeen the attacks) Replays: -coming soon- Frost vs Fire Core cards: Frost: 1. Ice Guardian 2. Master Archers 3. Lightblade 4. Ice Barrier 5. Home Soil Fire: 1. Scavenger 2. Sunstriders 3. Mortar Core strategy: To play against Fire T1 you need to follow one golden rule, that will bring you alot of success: Don't get Greedy! It sounds a little bit silly, but it's really important to handle a pure Fire player and I will explain this in detail now. Like in every other matchup you will be in an defensive position right from the start. If you survive the first attacks against fire you will gain a massive advantage and be able to apply alot of pressure or force your opponent into an early T2. So let's take a look at the different type of attacks a fire player may launch at you and how to defend them properly. How to defend a scavenger rush? I mentioned this scenario already a little bit earlier. It is a really dangerous strategy to play against when the distance between your power wells is really high. So I will choose Haladur to explain how to play in this situation, this map is a prime example due to the high distance between the main base & the middle. What's my starting unit? You have 2 viable starting units: Master Archers & Lightblade. Theses units will be needed in the defense. Lightblade allows you to make easy picks & is super tanky against the Scavengers. But I personally prefer to use master archers as my starting unit, because they are more reliable in the other scenarios against fire and if you see your opponent goes for the scavenger spam anyway you can still play the lightblade (pretty much as a surpise spawn to get a free taunt). - Do I even take a power well in the middle? - Yes, definitely. You stand no chance winning a dazed fight and you have to get access to at least 1 spot in the middle. Take the closest well next to your base (don't worry to much about map control, if your opponent takes the aggressive well on Haladur he puts himself into a close well situation which forces him to either bind power into a defensive mortar or he will just straight up lose the game from that point on). - My opponent started spamming scavenger, what shall I do? - Don't panic! You got less power, but way more efficient units, try to taunt one scavenger with your Lightblade! If your opponent runs away you got a very efficient trade, if he tries to attack, play maybe one additional Ice Guardian. Don't play more than 3 units immediatly! And DON'T use homesoil. If your opponent goes for the powerwell and it drops to 66% health start playing more units, only use glacier shell if it drops below 600hp! Your power management is the most important thing here. While it's usually good to play at your power limit it is important to keep some energy in you backpocket, so you will be able to react when the scavengers start moving down to your main base. Don't get too greedy and spend all your power at one spot, your other base will be left entirely helpless. Keep this in mind: If you play your defense perfectly you can ALWAYS defend a Scavenger spam, so stay calm! Second possible scenario: While the scavengerspam is just one possible scenario there is also one big threat, that is really dangerous to you, when you decide to take an overaggressive powerwell. I'm talking about the mortarrush. The threat of an offensive mortar is really big and forces you to make bad trades, which allows the fire player to snowball. Scavengers will rip Masterarchers apart while Sunstriders are a big threat to Ice Guardians. I finally found a great replay to showcase why this is the most dangerous thing you can encounter in this matchup: How to play this scenario properly: Sometimes you need to give up map control as a Frost T1 player due to bad map conditions. Even though you put yourself at a small disadvantage by taking a defensive power well, beeing too greedy may cost you the game against a top tier player and this just isn't worth the risk. Third possible scenario: You can also be lucky and get into a close well position, where your opponent has next to no chance of winning. But be careful at some positions. If the position is protected by terrain your opponent may try to build up a mortar, which can be really annoying to deal with. It's usually wise to have a well distance around 70-80m, which allows you to spam Ice-Guardians & Master Archers (their stats are faaaaar superior to Scavenger & Sunstrider) from a save distance. In later T1 stages you don't even have to worry about that. It is possible to beat out Fire even with a Mortar, your units have a great health pool and don't die immediatly, and with homesoil you can destroy the Mortar in about 3 seconds. Afterwards feel free to kill every unit around you. Tips & cards to watch out for Wrecker: This card is also used from time to time in a rush due to high dps & the rallying ability. But your Ice Guardian are stronger in theory, so keep in mind that you can take a well against a wrecker spam, but if you lose 1 or 2 units in addition for that things may snowball really damn fast. Firesworn: I didn't mention the card at all so far, but the S knockback can be a problem for your Master archers, so don't rely too much on them! Mine: Some people may try to protect their offensive mortar turrets with some sneaky mines for zone control. It's usually not worth it, because it's easily dodgeable (for the majority of people atleast) but always try to think about it so you don't get caught off guard! Replays: -> another mortar rush by Obesity vs freemka - coming soon- Frost vs Frost Core cards: 1. Ice Guardian 2.Frost Mage 3. Homesoil 4. Ice Barrier This matchup is pretty simple in terms of explanation, but pretty difficult when it comes to execution. First of all I recommend starting with frost mage (I know it's pretty uncommon, but that is pretty much because there were next to no experienced frost players around the high ranked ladder, since everyone played shadow & fire due to the high reliabilty). Master Archers don't have any particular use (there are no unitsquads to finish off and also no S units in general) and they get permacc'd by Frost mage. Lightblade isn't too bad, but it's just really useful against careless opponents who let their units get to close to their opponent before the true fight starts. Otherwise the Lightblade is just too expensive (with the taunt ability nearly as expensive as 2 Iceguardians, who have far superior combat stats). Apart from that there are 2 types of possible fights. 1. Ice Guardians vs Ice Guardians This occurs on small maps with close well positions. The winner of this matchup is going to be the player who has better micro management. So make sure to always keep track on your Ice Shields and move your units properly. In addition to that it's important to play at your absolute power limit, otherwise you will ultimately lose out due to lower dps. Try to have homesoil constantly active in combat (An Ice Guardian spam usually involves more than enough units to make it worth is), but don't get baited into using it too early at the start of the fight, otherwise your opponent may be able to retreat without losing any units and that would be a pretty huge loss for you. 2. Magespam This is why starting with Frostmage is so damn important and valuable. On maps without proper wellpositions to fight at, the Frostmagespam outscales Ice Guardians pretty fast. The amount of mages you need is higher than against nature so don't even think about attacking too early, but after 10+ Frostmages you will be able to oneshot Ice Guardians with a single attack rotation (75*10*1,55= 1163 single target burst damage). If you face a magespam with your magespam make sure to get off the first damage rotation. That's enough to win fight, because at some point your opponents counterattack won't deal enough burst damage to kill mages and your additonal splash damage also adds up over time. So make sure to get a clean & fast damage rotation at the start. Tips & cards to watch out for: Glyph of Frost: Just make sure to respect its threat and you should be able to dodge it. But if you walk into it with your entire army, it can be pretty dangerous, because the enemies dps is really high in such a big spam and getting hit by a good Frost-Glyph can possibly cost you the game. Also be careful when playing a magespam, because you will have all of them pretty close to each other since you need to do this for better focusfire. This may lead to a full 7 unit freeze, which is pretty dangerous. So just dodge it & take the free 50 power advantage. T2 timings: Dependend on your T2 colour you should chose your T2 timing wisely. As a pure Frost player you can negate even a big disadvantage by just going T2, if there is at least some void power in your pool. War Eagles demolishe entire M unit armies. Replays: -coming soon- Frost T1 vs T2 This section will be added for Frost T1 specificly, because it's one Frosts biggest advantages over every other T1. It has enough power to even beat some T2's in a close well situation and I'm not talking about just defending with an extra well, I'm talking about straight up aggression. Here are the decks Frost beats in a T1 vs T2 scenario. 1. Pure Nature: I mentioned this already, Magespam can't be stopped by a pure Nature player. Ghost Spears & Spirit Hunter are useless against the S knockback, Deep one will end up getting kited with Frost bite, and pure Nature doesn't have any other swift units. You don't need a close well to do this, but Ice Guardians will also do the job pretty well combined with the additional mages. Careful: Dependend on your opponents deck you may have to play a lightblade to counter a potential Spikeroot. This is especially important against people who used Tresspirit, because it's often an indicator for root decks. 2. Stonekin: Pretty similar scenario. The Frost Mages will do a great job against stonekin and Ice Guardians are almost impossible to kill (Stonekin lacks high dps units, which leaves the deck with no option to kill any units, while beeing forced to spend more and more power for cc and building protects). Having a Lightblade as a hard counter for Stonetempest can be valuable too (even though Stonetempest isn't too popular anymore). Just make sure to split your units as well as possible against cc and aoe knockups (razorshard). 3. Pure Fire: If the pure Fire player goes T2 early into the game you can punish him by taking a close well. Your Ice Guardians have a great hp pool to survive initial Enforcer charges. Pure Fire has no cc and therefore has to rely on a combination out of units & wildfire to defend attacks properly. On a low power level you can just play either units or spells and that lets the efficency decrease by alot. In later game stages you shouldn't rush Pur Fire players because their defense gets much stronger and you don't want to allow the fire player to scale into the late game (Especially when you are playing pure Frost, T2 is such a great opportunity for you to win the game). 4. Fire Nature: This also works really well, because Lavafield doesn't do enough damage to deal with the hp pool of Ice Guardians. Try to split your Master Archers against Hurricane and focus single Skyfire drakes with Frost bite. The lack of cheap & spammable T2 units will allow you to apply alot of pressure in the close well situation. 5. Bandits: Well Bandits has no cc, the aoe spells don't do enough damage and this makes it alot easier for you. But Bandits has spammable high dps units (Nightcrawler & Darkelf assassins), who can punish you really hard if you micro poorly, so try to kite nightcrawlers with Frost bite and play a Frostmage to deal with the Darkelf assassins. 6. Fire Frost: The success against Fire Frost was really dependend on the situation. Most of the time you should look for a close well against a wellcluster to reduce the efficency of Glacier Shell. Otherwise Coldsnap & Building protects may stall the game up to a point with enough room for Skyfiredrakes and Scythe Fiends. Fire Frost has pretty expensive units though, which means you got a big advantage in the early fights. The other decks had some cards that were to strong to allow a favourable close well situation unless you've got a tremendous lead. -> Shadow Nature has the cheapest cc and the cheapest high dps units -> Pure Frost has War Eagle (The Ability is too damn powerful) -> pure Shadow has Shadow Mages -> Shadow Frost has Lyrish Nasty, cheap high dps units & building protects Overall playing pure Frost was always a great experience for me and I hope we see at least some Frost T1 players in the game, when everyone is able to play again. So I hope you like the guide and I hope it will be useful for some of you in the future. I'll update it with replays, when I found some good ones, currently there are sadly no impressive Frost matches on youtube. If you are interested in more content about playing T1 check out my Shadow T1 guide aswell! I guess that's about it, thanks for reading and have a nice day! Best regards, RadicalX
  23. Falkum

    PvP 2on2 matchmaking System

    Hi guys, i was wondering how you will implement the PvP 2on2 matchmaking/ranking system? As far as i know, there are two ways to do this. Either you collect ELO as a team: When i play with my mate we get ELO as the team "mate and i" and when i play with another mate we will start with zero ELO. Or you get ELO for yourself: When i play with my mate we both have our own seperate ELO and it calculated to one team-ELO. After the match we both receive ELO for our self and for the next match team-ELO is calculated again out of our own ELO. Do you already know which way you re going to handle this? I hope you understand my english
  24. Eirias

    Eirias Replay are Back!

    Hey, sorry for the hiatus. I'm back, and we've got two replays that are going up (first one is below) co-commentated with @RadicalX @LagOps @Hirooo @Dexirian better come cast with me quick before RadicalX becomes permanent For anyone new who doesn't know about the channel, I do replays (and some other stuff, sometimes) at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZLtgBj59SBfIZzcYWbxJVg and https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxf9iCqSdQSr0zc389NYemA
  25. So I wrote a guide that I will use for myself when the game launches. I gathered what i got from other guides and wrote a summary of what I understood. I would like to see people's opinion's on it : Things that are highlighted in red (THIS OR THIS) are more important than other points. Tips to follow before the match: Warmup before playing competitively, Make sure you are ready to play, Revise the strategies and think about how your deck matches up against other factions. Make sure you are calm and collected to maximise your performance, ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tips to follow during the match: [Micro, Awareness and Tactics]: All units are doing what is best, Look for the best moment to use a spell and only use it if you really need it, Try to kill units in the most efficient manner and try to trade up in value, Avoid using abilities unless you need them(i.e. frenzy because your units will die after the frenzy); but make sure to use them if there is no drawback, Attempt to either try to get a large advantage early on and finish the game or try to win small skirmishes and stall until tier 3 where you can end the game, Always build the right counter to the attacking force and use t1 to counter t1, t2 for t2 and t3 for t3 unless a card is very useful(like scavenger and frost sorceress), If you gain an advantage(i.e. destroy a well) make sure you deny the opponent an opportunity to do so to you. This can be done by defending after a successful attack, If the armies are even, try to initiate the attack next to your base because your fresh units won't be dazed and your orb attacks units, Build your first unit as fast as you can so you can rush it to the well faster and get the well first. This will give you a slight power advantage, Make sure to utilise cards that support your units even if they aren't a counter to a unit. These can be a unit that can trample(dreadcharger) or knockback(firesworn) other units, Try to play the way your faction is best played, If you can use less common tactics to try to force a mistake from your opponent, Always try to use hotkeys and try to learn all of them, Learn the maps: look up replays and try to see what tricks good players use. Also learn where the best orb and well clusters are, Remember to spread your units so spells are less effective against them, Try to attack multiple locations to strain the opponent, Focus fire units to make sure they die. If you are attacking a squad, then try to leave 1 or 2 units alive so they bind power(unless it's a squad like spirit hunters, they only need one unit to do a lot of damage, so take them out). If a unit is being focus fired then retreat it to a well and wait for it to heal up. TRY NOT TO GET ANGRY DURING THE MATCH, IF YOUR COOL-HEADED YOU CAN MAKE BETTER DECISIONS! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [Power]: A well is equal to spawning 1000 power in cards, this is because if you lose a well you lose 100 power and if you lose 1000 power in cards then you lose 100 power also, Only build a well if you think you can defend it for 200 seconds(rough guide), During the game you should wait for a large advantage before you build an orb, or if you doubt you will gain an advantage in that tier then take an orb(only if you can defend it), If you are going to take an orb and a well make sure to take the wells first as they will start giving power back nearly instantly while the orb takes a while to build and during that time you could have gained power. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tips to follow after the match: [Analysing]: Watch a replay of your game and try to spot the mistakes you have done, next game focus on not making those mistakes again, Think about your deck; are the cards you are currently using not working well together? Are you unable to counter specific cards? Do you not have good ... counters? If yes try to revise your deck. Try to practice your micro and look back at all the tips. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you think I should add something to my list then please tell me. There is no point of following a guide if it leads to the wrong path!
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